I have made some progress on the Voroshilovets as I am trying to get it finished. This means all the small things that need to be touched and finalized, so it usually takes some time. In this case I had to add windows on the cargo bed cover. This was quite easy, so I was lucky because not having paid attention to the instructions properly, I did not notice at first that the windows are not the same and that each window fits specific opening (all windows are numbered). As I said, luckily I found this out not too late, so all the windows were fixed as per instructions.
Yesterday I picked this model again, intent on getting it to the finish line in hopefully near future. I have finished the tracks, which were painted in the mix of black/brown base colour. I added light overspray with Tamiya Khaki Brown (XF-51) to make the tone bit more natural. Afterwards I have applied Dark Mud Pigment from the Mig range. I applied it both to the inner and outer side, the inner part was covered lightly and the pigment was then spread along the track using makeup sponge brush and my fingers. At the end, most of the pigments were accumulated in the gaps between track links and in around the details such as guide horns.
On the outer part, I have spread the tracks on my table and using a medium brush dipped the pigments generously, but randomly on top of it. Then I used larger brush and fixed the pigment in place by touching the tracks with the tip of the brush and let the capillary action spread it. This was done to avoid smearing the pigments, but let them accumulate naturally.
Having been working on the tarps for the Abrams, I used the occasion to make some progress on the Voroshilovets. Against my original intentions I decided to used the tarp for the cargo bed. It is actually very nicely molded in one piece and adds different shape to the vehicle. To add bit of a visual interest I cut two small rectangles from the rolled sheet of magic sculp I was using for Abrams stowage and used them as a patches on the top of the tarp. Just a small bit, but makes a difference. I used broken tip of an X-acto blade to simulate stitching along the edges. It might be bit too heavy, but as good as I could get.
Another addition to this model are going to be tracks – I have actually picked up Friul tracks for a fair price at my favourite Hornet Hobbies store to replace the kit’s plastic one. Friul tracks are sooo much better and must admit also much easier to put together. Kit tracks are fair but require lot of cleaning and the fit is so-so. I have already painted them with the base colour, they are just waiting for some weathering touch.
It’s been a while since my latest post on Voroshilovets build. The main reason is that somehow when I was looking at the model I was not happy with it. I could not say what exactly I did not like about it, but I guess it felt little flat. In spite of the weathered whitewash and chipping, it still did not have the depth I was looking for. Not sure what to do about it I set it aside.
This Thursday I brought the kit to our regular Flightlines session and got a lot of encouragement from my friends (thx), so decided to tackle the problem. I chose to test another product from the AK line, this time the Dark Brown wash for green vehicles (AK045). I applied it mostly undiluted on the side cargo walls and cab and I am very satisfied with the result.
Voroshilovets has become bit of a guinea pig right now as I was testing some techniques of creating muddy look using a technique I have recently discovered.
As can be seen from previous posts, after applying base green coat at the lower hull I have added basis for layer of mud. This was done by applying mix of white glue and water (so that the consistency of the mix is such that it can be easily applied with a brush) at places where I wanted to add mud and then sprinkling fine soil I have collected in the garden last spring. This soil has thoroughly dried since and I have crushed it bit as well, so at the bottom of the jar, where I store it is some really fine soil. Of course you have to hold the surface to which you apply this horizontally and once it is done I turn it upside down and tap it gently to remove loose soil particles. As desired, this process can be repeated number of times.
After the glue has dried I decided to give the surface another coat of green base (just the base, no highlights or any other effects) to reduce the contrast between the surface and the soil.
If you are not looking to add heavier layer of mud you can skip the above steps and directly proceed to the one following below. I just find it more efficient to build the volume this way (garden soil is much cheaper than pigments).
With the soil firmly in place, I then add pigments. The technique I use is following:
I wet the surface where I want to add pigments with the pigments thinner (usually oil based thinner). Then keeping the surface horizontally I dab the pigments with medium-sized brush in medium and larger volumes as desired – I just dip the brush in the pigment (both brush and pigments are dry) and then touch the surface, so that the pigments get attached to the wet surface. The important point is that the brush should barely touch the surface – just the pigments should. The brush should in no case slide along the surface, otherwise you will just smear the pigments which will look unnatural. The process is then repeated with another 2 or 3 different shade of pigments, placing the lighter pigment shades on top of the darker ones. Also keep the combination of pigment colors compatible, so that it corresponds to the environment and terrain where the vehicle would be located (or will be if you are building diorama).
Again, the process can be repeated many times to achieve desired effect. At the end just add the thinner to the whole surface so that the pigments are thoroughly wet and let them dry overnight. The following day I have checked the effect and make some small corrections – e.g. crushed larger particles of pigments that would look unnatural.
When satisfied with the look I have then applied pigment fixer (I use Mig products). This makes sure that the pigments are firmly attached to the surface and do not looses in time.
After applying pigments in this way, the contrast between the base paint coat and pigments as well as between the different pigments shade is excessive and needs to be reduced. To achieve this I have airbrushed the surface withe mix of Tamiya Flat Earth and Khaki Drab mixed approximately in 2:1 proportion. I think I have overdone it a bit on the first side I was working on, so there is now not enough contrast.
To add depth to this effect I have at the end I have applied heavy wash of the Burnt Umber and Black oil paints.
Just a few more shots. Tonight I added chipping to the other parts of the vehicle – metal parts of the cargo bed walls and rear of the vehicle. I think this quite added life to these surface.
I notice that my right and left front fenders have distinctively different look as a result of applying the hairspray-weathered white wash at different times (with quite a time break between them). Will have to fix it a bit with some more weathering.
After the application of the whitewash camouflage using the hairspray method, the finish of the tractor was rather flat. The finish at this time is also rather inconsistent – there is a layer of heavily weathered and chipped white paint, apparently resulting from long period of exposure to the elements, but there is no other sign of “wear and tear” resulting from this exposure. The chipped white paint is also too clean given the prolonged time it must have taken to weather the camouflage paint.
To fix this I followed with the first of multiple weathering steps I will be applying – another layer of heavy wash of oils – I use Winsor Newton artist oils, mix of Black and Burnt Umber heavily thinned, but still strong enough to leave the chipped white visibly darker.
After letting the wash dry for at least 24 hours follows addition of chips. I use drybrushing to apply these, I use small size brush and cover only small areas one at a time. Again using oils, the same mix as above. The advantage is that any mistakes or effects that I don’t like I can fix with a brush moistened in oil thinner.
When applying chipping one has to think about where the chips would occur – e.g. on the doors, they would be on the edges of the side that swings, not the other one. By the way – when applying chipping around the doors I realized that it would have been much easier if I hadn’t glued them in place, hopefully will remember this next time.
The final effect adds quite a bit of contrast to the previously flat finish (though the effect looks somehow exaggerated in the photographs) and makes it much more interesting.
Now, since the cargo bed is not made of metal, I will have to find an alternative method of weathering there.
I managed to play a bit with the Voroshilovets over the last days.
I added small markings on the side cargo bed walls – small red triangle on each side. Kit provides decals for this, but I thought it might be better to mask them and airbrush them. It would work fine, just on the left side as I masked the shape of the triangle with the masking tape, because the walls are not flat, but imitate rough wooden surface structure, the masking tape has not perfectly adhered to the surface and the paint has seeped under it a bit. Not a lot of it can be seen, but a lesson for the next time nevertheless…
Then I have of course added the whitewash camouflage using the hairspray method (of which I have written some time ago here). It worked mostly fine, just on the rear end I have not applied enough of the hairspray and the amount of paint subsequently lifted is somewhat less than on the other sides.
Right after applying the whitewash the paint finish lost most of its depth and looked very flat, so I applied filter of Burnt Umber oil paint. It is little better now, but still will need more layers of weathering to create the depth…
After applying the base coat I needed to the lighten the overall color of the tractor and also wanted to created some vertical gradation of the green shades on the vehicle. To achieve this I have added Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow, XF-21 Sky and XF-2 Flat White to the base of XF-13 J.A. Green. Progressively adding more and more of these lighter colors I have airbrushed about 4 different shades of green vertically, with the last one only applied on the top edges of cargo bed walls and cab roof.
I have also generally highlighted vertical surfaces of the cab and engine hood and to a lesser degree of other vertical surfaces, such as doors. I added the highlights to the outer edges of the front and rear fenders, benches and stowage boxes on the cargo bed.
I left the lower part of the vehicle pretty much in the base color, only adding little bit of intermediate highlights on the outer part of the four-wheel sections (forgot to mention that I have kept these separate until after applying the base coat).
While I was looking for the right shade of Russian green for the base coat I put my hands on the latest Model Military Magazine, which features build article by Mike Rinaldi (see here). This time his subject is the Churchill in the Russian service. I got inspired by the paint job on the Churchill and decided to try the same colours for my Voroshilovets.
I am not the purist, who would argue about the one and only correct shade of Russian green (or British bronze green or US olive drab or any other historical colour when it comes to that). I believe that in reality the variation in the colour of the actual vehicles was big. Also due to the rather heavy weathering I plan to apply, the final look will be significantly different from the one of the paint I start with.
So after finishing preshading with the Tamiya Nato Black I airbrushed the base coat of Tamiya XF-13 J.A. Green. As usually, I have added 10% of Tamiya X-22 Clear.
Please note that I still keep the cab (and also its interior) separate to make painting its rear section as well as the front wall of the cargo bed easier.
I have also left out windows so far, I plan to install them after the next phase – highlighting.
…and in relation to my recent post on the forthcoming Russian artillery tractor kits – Trumpeter has today released more pictures of their S-65. So finally some more details, including sprue shots. You can find them here.
Note to Trumpeter – please get someone speaking English to proofread your web site announcement.
Having been working mostly on other things, I made some small progress on the Voroshilovets.
Since I am not using the canvas provided in the kit, I had to fill the gap in the chassis, that would be visible from the top between the cab and the cargo bed. To do this I just cut rectangular piece of styrene and glued it between the side walls of the chassis/lower hull part.
I have primed the individual components using Tamiya’s white can primer as usual. I just gave it few quick oversprays, trying to avoid build-up of paint in between the surface details, as has happened to me before. The surface does not need to completely covered, there are few spots with the styrene still visible.
With extra fine sandpaper I cleaned the surface on the most visible areas to make sure it’s smooth. I then started to preshade the parts. I prefer to airbrush all the surface with dark color, this time I have used Tamiya’s XF-69 NATO Black. It’s not as dark as the Flat Black, so it is easier to apply the base colour afterwards. I added about 20-30% of Tamiya X-22 Clear to make the finish smooth for subsequent paint layers.
So far I have applied preshading to cab interior and lower hull, which I kept separate from the cargo bed, so that it was easier to cover all the surface behind return rollers and upper surface of the rear fenders. After preshading, I glued the hull to the cargo bed part.
I preshaded inner walls of the cab, it was not that difficult, as I have not glued the windows in so far.
So now I have to finish pre-shading on the remaining parts. Actually first I still need to fix some gaps, mostly around the attachment of the reflectors to the sides of the front grill.
Then I will have to come up with some nice shade of Russian green for base coat. Any ideas?
to be continued…