My models

Ford G917T – Part 3: Gap filling trick

As I have mentioned before, one of the small issues with this kit is the gap on the outer face of the rear wheels, that needs to be filled. There are many ways to do this, I guess almost every modeler may have his favorite one…

One trick I have learned from my friend is following method: Fill the gap with Mr. Surfacer or similar product – I am using mix of Tamiya putty (the grey one) with Tamiya extra thin cement. You may need to apply multiple layers to build enough volume to fill the gap. Of course you will end up with something as you can see on the first photo.


Now let the putty sit for about 15 minutes. Afterwards take a Q-tip and dip it into Alcohol or Lacquer thinner and rub the surface to remove the excess putty around the gap. I usually dab the Q-tip on a piece of kitchen napkin to remove excess alcohol/thinner, so that is not flooding the surface. After a while you should achieve something as you can see on the other photo:


One problem in this case is that the gap is actually on a raised edge, so I wasn’t able to remove the gap completely, but at least it’s not as visible as before.

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5 replies »

  1. Interesting technique. Seems like it would be useful in certain situations where CA won’t cut it. Out of curiosity, have you tried airbrushing Mr. Surfacer 1200 as a primer coat? I’ve used it on a couple of aircraft models, but I’m not sure how well it will work on armor or the model railroad items I usually build…

    – Chris

    • Hi Chris,
      I have attempted airbrushing Mr. Surfacer long time ago, though I am not sure whether it was the 1200 one or rather the thicker variety. Some modellers used it to replicate the non-slip surface on modern vehicles, so I wanted to give it a try, but without luck. I have found Mr. Surfacer too thick and difficult to airbrush. It succesfully cloged my airbrush…
      I know modellers use the can version as a primer, though I don’t think I have tried it, I am quite happy with the Tamiya can primer, which I feel is little finer.
      If you have tried it on a aircrafts, I don’t see a reason why it would not work on armour… I would say give it a try and let me know…
      Thanks & happy modeling,


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